Surfers have often been portrayed in the media and pop culture as vapid burnouts with seawater dripping from our nose and ears. My day job as a studio artist doesn’t allow me to speak to many people , and when I do, I find it difficult to command anyone’s attention. This podcast is my attempt to examine and highlight extraordinary characters and places that shape the lives of surfers.. surfing, travel, religion and conspiracy theories are the subjects that dominate my thinking .
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Surfers have often been portrayed in the media and pop culture as vapid burnouts with seawater dripping from our nose and ears. My day job as a studio artist doesn’t allow me to speak to many people , and when I do, I find it difficult to command anyone’s attention. This podcast is my attempt to examine and highlight extraordinary characters and places that shape the lives of surfers.. surfing, travel, religion and conspiracy theories are the subjects that dominate my thinking .
Nias | Discovering a wave of a lifetime and a murderous plot.Shamans Surfers headhunters&Christians
A Surfer’s Path
40 minutes 34 seconds
5 years ago
Nias | Discovering a wave of a lifetime and a murderous plot.Shamans Surfers headhunters&Christians
In this episode I'll tell you the origin story of surfing at Nias Island's Lagundri Bay. 3 Australian surfers made the discovery of a wave that has become as sacred to surfers, as Mecca is to Muslims. Even though Christianity had spread throughout the island since the early 1900's, There was still an undercurrent of evil flowing just beneath the surface. Written, narrated, and produced by Phil Goodrich
show notes and references:
The Tell-Tale Heart: Conversion and Emotion in Nias
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/254277435_The_Tell-Tale_Heart_Conversion_and_Emotion_in_Nias
Custodians Of The Point
https://www.surfersjournal.com/product/custodians-of-the-point-the-story-of-lagundi-bay-nias/
A Surfer’s Path
Surfers have often been portrayed in the media and pop culture as vapid burnouts with seawater dripping from our nose and ears. My day job as a studio artist doesn’t allow me to speak to many people , and when I do, I find it difficult to command anyone’s attention. This podcast is my attempt to examine and highlight extraordinary characters and places that shape the lives of surfers.. surfing, travel, religion and conspiracy theories are the subjects that dominate my thinking .
