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Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing
Plug Tone Audio | Power Company Climbing
28 episodes
9 months ago
Hosts Kris Hampton and Paul Corsaro explore the science behind rock climbing.
Show more...
Wilderness
Science,
Sports
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All content for Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing is the property of Plug Tone Audio | Power Company Climbing and is served directly from their servers with no modification, redirects, or rehosting. The podcast is not affiliated with or endorsed by Podjoint in any way.
Hosts Kris Hampton and Paul Corsaro explore the science behind rock climbing.
Show more...
Wilderness
Science,
Sports
https://is1-ssl.mzstatic.com/image/thumb/Podcasts116/v4/5e/39/6b/5e396baf-a384-342a-237c-d37c6ca72545/mza_3542512682820586702.jpg/600x600bb.jpg
Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing
35 minutes 34 seconds
3 years ago
Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
In this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez: Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzalez-Badillo; published in the Journal of Human Kinetics in 2019. They’ll attempt, once more, to determine whether or not scientific evidence exists in favor of a single hangboard protocol being more effective than the rest. Tune in to find out if we have a clear winner in the ring between Max or Intermittent Hangs, or if Paul and Kris are destined to be discussing hangboard studies for many more seasons to come!   *Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: From Episode 1: The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology, 2012.   Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share!And please, just like in Episode 1, tell all of your ridiculous friends who still claim that they know the best hangboard protocol, that you have the perfect podcast for them.   Breaking Beta is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning, and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. Find full episode transcripts, citations, and more at our website. Follow Kris and Breaking Beta on Instagram  Follow Paul and Crux Conditioning on Instagram  If you have questions, comments, or want to suggest a paper we should cover, find us at our Community + Knowledge Hub. Our music is from legendary South Dakota band Rifflord.
Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing
Hosts Kris Hampton and Paul Corsaro explore the science behind rock climbing.