What looks like a baroque plaza was once a roaring Roman racetrack—and this episode uncovers the layers of Piazza Navona’s dramatic past. We’ll explore Bernini’s famous fountain, the church built on the site of a young saint’s martyrdom, and how a powerful pope and his ambitious family reshaped the square. From ancient athletes to swirling angels, this piazza tells a story of art, rivalry, and reinvention—all in one elegant oval.