Umbhinqo; Kubhinqa abatheni xa kutheni? Narrated by Mama Makholi, a maker at the Willowvale Arts Center, she details for us which folds adorn which body and for what occasions. Here we come to learn about isishuba and the colours that fashion male and female bodies kwaXhosa. In our conversation with Mama Makholi we try locate the historical roots of colours used kwaXhosa, when and why we wrap the body in this particular garment.
Umbhinqo - the act of folding cloth around the body is normally associated with the female form but with Mama Makholi we come to understand that ukubhinqa extends to all genders, it is a way of wrapping the body as a form of showing respect to ancestry.
Isishuba being the traditional garment for men kwaXhosa is made with certain specifications, Mama Makholi becomes our Fashion instructor, guiding us to come to appreciate the craftsmanship behind the garment.
As we listen to her one has to wonder if our modern day re-appropriations do not take away from these historical meanings of the cloth that fashions the body.
Community contributors
The James Family
Mrs Kutazwa James
The community yaku Gatyana
Willowvale Arts Center and with special thanks to the Art Center Manager, Lukhanyo Muluse
Azola Krweqe
Ms Nobuhle James
Mrs Nokhaya Jilingisa
Mama Makholi
Willowvale Makers Co-op
Mr Mangaliso Jafta
Special thanks to the production team:
Executive Producer - Bongani Tau
Content Advisor - Sihle Sogaula
Graphic Designers - 2DOTS Space Agency
UN/FOLDING_RE/FOLDING_FOLDED is nestled under THE FOLD – a creative and collaborative research project led by the African Fashion Research Institute in partnership with Creative Nestlings Foundation for the New Narratives Programme 2023