In this episode, I finally make it to Rome — six hours later than planned, emotionally weathered, and just in time to miss my long-awaited Sistine Chapel reservation, courtesy of the ongoing Stow Your Bags situation back in Florence.

I recover by visiting the Coliseum at night (10/10, would gaze again), wandering until I find the kind of spaghetti that makes me think Chef Boyardee wasn't a chef at all, and descending into the depths of a Roman train station so far that I think I need to equalize when I ascend again.

Later, I visit Vatican City, see St. Peter’s Basilica from the roof down, and I find the holiest coffee I've ever had.

A gently chaotic trip through ancient ruins, missed reservations, and pasta-induced peace. Told slowly, so you can drift off somewhere between the roof of the Vatican and the basement of the Metro.