» Finger strength is one of the most important aspects in climbing, and one of the most discussed topics with no lack of contradictory advice and opinions.
» In this episode we'll outline an approach to finger strength—mainly through no-hangs, which for me has unlocked one-arm hangs on 12mm edges and hard sends up to 8C difficulty.
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⭕️ Episode Essentials: www.nilsasken.com/mail» Regardless, I hope this episode can be of some value to you 🙏
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30 Day Free Trial — Kjugekull Premium Guidebook: https://27crags.com/teams/kjugebloc?referral=5fea8b20f311c432– TIME-STAMPS –(00:00) – Intro
(01:08) – Overview
(02:03) – Terminology
(02:58) – The Yearly Approach
(06:26) – Hangs vs Lifts
(09:36) – Max No-hang Training
(09:57) – No-Hang Form
(14:04) – Type of Lifting Device
(14:48) – Lifts vs Holds
(16:45) – Reps/Sets
(17:45) – Session per Week
(19:22) – Grip Positions
(22:52) – Lazy Pinky
(26:31) – Optimization
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