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I’m just a surfer reading about surfing so you can listen to stories about surfing when you’re not surfing. Stay stoked!
This episode features a story from Matt Warshaw’s book Surfriders: In Search of the Perfect Wave. It’s called “Morning at Freshwater.”When this story was written in the 1990’s, most people believed Duke Kahanamoku introduced surfing to Australia in 1914. Today, we know there were earlier examples of wave riding in Australia, but Duke’s visit to Freshwater remains a defining moment that helped surfing take root and grow into a national passion. With a board he shaped by hand during his first two weeks in Australia, Duke paddled out and showed the crowd on the beach something most had never seen before — the pure art of wave riding.If you’d like to help support the podcast, you can visit buymeacoffee.com/thesurferslibrary. Your support helps cover the platform fees that keep the show going each month, so any little bit truly helps.Also, if you have any story ideas or feedback for the podcast please contact us on Instagram or at thesurferslibrary@gmail.comLet’s paddle out.
The Surfer’s Library
I’m just a surfer reading about surfing so you can listen to stories about surfing when you’re not surfing. Stay stoked!