Scott Johnston and Maury Birdwell are both incredibly experienced mountain athletes and endurance Coaches. They train athletes for both military selections the most competitive big mountain ultra-endurance events.
Maury currently holds the fastest known time on the Diamond of Long’s Peak, a 1000’ rock face that climbs at the grade of 5.10 and is usually a 12 hour or longer outing for most parties. He completed it in just under 3.5 hours car to car.
Scott is the author of both Training for the Uphill Athlete and Training for the New Alpinism. Those books led to many operators pursuing Tier 1 selection events to begin reaching out to him for training. The people he and his team of coaches have trained for these events have a very high rate of success. He was a nationally competitive swimmer and cross country skier in his collegiate days. In the 1970s and 80s he spent many seasons on Denali
In this episode of the Tactical Alpinism podcast, host Mauri DiMeo reflects on the past year, discussing the growth of the podcast, personal transitions, and future plans. He emphasizes the importance of community engagement and mentorship opportunities for listeners, especially those transitioning from military to civilian life. The episode also touches on navigating the holiday season and the significance of being present with family and friends.
In this conversation, Mauri DiMeo and Dave Searle discuss the intricacies of mountain guiding, the journey to becoming an IFMGA certified guide, and the differences in guiding standards across countries. They explore the importance of mentorship, the challenges of balancing social media presence with authenticity, and the shift in focus from gear to risk management in outdoor activities. The discussion also covers the vision behind the Oak app, user experience, skill assessment, and the personal experiences of balancing family life with outdoor adventures.
In this conversation, Isaac Laredo discusses selecting a splitboard, and then transitions to the benefits of lightweight hard boots compared to traditional soft boots. He emphasizes the efficiency gained in energy usage and performance.
This discussion with Michael Ackerman aka "AK" focuses on training with avalanche dogs, the evolution of avalanche education and training, highlighting the need for distinct educational paths for recreationalists and professionals. It covers the changes in training systems prior to 2017 and the introduction of separate educational lanes in 2017, known as 'the split,' to cater to different demographics' unique needs of professionals and recreational users.
In this episode of the Tactical Alpinism Podcast, Mauri DiMeo and Silas Rossi discuss the nuances of selecting ice tools and axes for various mountain activities. They explore the differences between technical ice tools, hybrid mountain tools, and mountaineering axes, offering insights into their preferences and experiences. The conversation emphasizes the importance of trying out equipment at ice festivals and considering the ecosystem of a single brand for efficiency.
The conversation delves into the dangers faced by military mountaineers, particularly focusing on acute mountain sickness and carbon monoxide poisoning. Emily Johnston shares insights from research that highlights the risks associated with weather conditions and the use of stoves in tents. Mauri DiMeo discusses innovations in mountaineering gear designed to enhance safety and efficiency. The dialogue emphasizes the importance of understanding these hazards and the need for better equipment to mitigate risks.
Mauri DiMeo and Silas Rossi delve into the intricacies of ice climbing, focusing on the essential gear and techniques required for safety and efficiency. They explore the nuances of building the right ice rack, proper ice screw selection, and the role of V-Thread tools in creating secure anchors. The conversation also touches on the challenges of climbing in varying ice conditions and the strategies for using traditional protection methods effectively.
In this conversation, Elyse Ping Medvigy shares her journey from military life to high-altitude mountaineering, discussing the challenges of balancing personal interests with professional obligations. She reflects on her experiences climbing iconic mountains like Everest and Mount Hood, the importance of mental preparation, nutrition, and the dynamics of climbing teams. Elyse emphasizes the need for self-reliance, the impact of stress on performance, and the lessons learned from both successes and setbacks in her climbing career.
In this episode of Tactical Alpinism, Mauri DiMeo discusses the importance of selecting the right helmet for various outdoor activities, particularly climbing and skiing. He highlights recent achievements in the Himalayas, explains the different certifications for helmets, and provides insights into the types of helmets available. The conversation emphasizes the significance of understanding helmet standards and making informed choices based on specific activities to ensure safety.
Takeaways:
In this conversation, Jim Donini shares his extensive experiences in climbing, discussing the evolution of techniques, the impact of personal tragedy on his journey, and the importance of partner dynamics in climbing. He reflects on the joy of exploration, the significance of first ascents, and the future of climbing, emphasizing that there are still many unclimbed peaks and challenges ahead for the next generation of climbers. Donini also touches on health challenges he has faced and how they have shaped his perspective on climbing and life.
climbing, alpine climbing, first ascents, mountaineering, Jim Donini, outdoor adventure, climbing techniques, health challenges, climbing philosophy, exploration
Silas is an IFMGA licensed mountain guide and an AMGA instructor team member with the AMGA. He is also the current president of the AMGA's board of directors.
Silas guide's aroudn the world and is primarily based in the Shawangunks of NY. He runs the online education and guiding platform ALPINE LOGIC.
Once created, the gear list I mention in the episode will be here.
Paul Rogers shares his experiences leading the Special Operations Mountain Warfare Training Course, studying at NPS, a significant skiing accident in Colorado, and the subsequent rescue operation that saved his life. He discusses the importance of risk management in mountain warfare training, the unique role of Green Berets in unconventional warfare, and the need for better preparation for future mountain operations. The conversation highlights the lessons learned from personal experiences and the broader implications for military training and operations in mountainous terrains.
In this conversation, Paul Rogers and Mauri DiMeo delve into the complexities of mountain warfare, discussing the challenges of survival and operational effectiveness in harsh environments. They explore the costs associated with thriving in such terrains, the evolution of training programs, and the importance of leadership in understanding the unique demands of mountain operations. The discussion also touches on irregular warfare strategies in mountainous regions and the need for specialized training to enhance military capabilities. Ultimately, they emphasize the necessity of investing in both personnel and resources to ensure success in mountain warfare.
Images of the fall down Wilson Peak
Paul's Article: "The Answers are in the Mountains: Countering Chinese Aggression with Irregular Warfare"
This is the first episode of a shorter type of episodes. The Mountain Locker is a series of solo and discussion based gear, equipment and tactics focused episodes.
As requested, here are some of the pieces mentioned in this episode.
In this episode, Logan Talbot, an IFMGA guide, shares his journey into climbing, the importance of mentorship, and the art of decision-making in high-stakes environments. He discusses risk management strategies, the thrill of exploring the unknown, and the significance of having a reliable team in the mountains.
Operational Risk Form from Alpenglow: https://tacticalalpinism.com/blog/blog-post-title-one-twz94
This Episode's cover art background is Artesonraju, which Logan talked about in this episode.
Chapters
Keywords
Peru, Artesonraju, Alpamayo, 8k, Cordillera Blanca, Himalaya, High altitude, climbing, mentorship, risk management, IFMGA, mountain guide, decision-making, high-stakes, adventure, exploration, team dynamics
The conversation explores the evolution and impact of the 10th Mountain Division and its Alpine Club, focusing on the cultural significance, training methodologies, and leadership dynamics within the military mountaineering context. It highlights the importance of outdoor recreation in shaping the identity of soldiers and the legacy of the division, while also addressing the challenges and opportunities in modern military training.
Tanner Wanish on Manufacturing Adversity and Redefining Limits”
In this episode, we sit down with Tanner Wanish—former Navy SEAL turned elite big-wall climber—whose achievements in Yosemite have redefined what’s possible. From setting a speed record on the Triple Crown to inventing the Yosemite Quad and completing the Goliath Traverse.
We dive into Tanner’s unique philosophy of “manufacturing adversity”—deliberately seeking out hardship as a path to growth. He shares how his military background shaped his mental toughness, the logistics of fueling multi-day endurance climbs, and the delicate balance between risk and reward.
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This discussion was originally recorded and released on the MOPS N MOES Podcast. It dives into the research I conducted over the past few years, looking at a potential new metric for assessing and individualizing endurance training.
Here is the manuscript for the research if you're nerdy enough to want to read it.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18iFyMifoPSL5r60GAXPE8b-VFJny36dy/view?usp=sharing
Chris Schulte has been a professional climbing athlete for Black Diamond, La Sportiva and several others since pretty early on in the United States' progression with that even being a profession. He was a mysterious figure in the Bouldering scene for many because he seemed to avoid the limelight and just climb hard things. When I found out that he was local to where this podcast is produced and recorded, I just knew I had to have him on.
Find some of the writing that he mentions in the episode below:
Patience: https://climbingzine.com/patience-chris-schulte/
Hidden Dragons: https://climbingzine.com/hidden-dragons-chris-schulte/
Jonathan Pope is one of the founders of Building the Elite and Fuel My Day Foods. Building the Elite is a tactical fitness company that focusses on preparing operators for selections and the rigors of their very physical job. Fuel My Day Foods was a brain child of Johnathan for addressing issues he was experiencing on big mountain days and for issues the operators he trains, who still wanted to fuel and perform well, were experiencing on long deployments.
Building the Elite: https://www.buildingtheelite.com/
Fuel My Day Foods: https://www.fuelmydayfoods.com/collections/all