Big thanks to all of my guests this year - every one of you brought amazing things to the conversation and I am incredible grateful to you all.
Here though are 12 conversations that really stood out - if you like what you hear be sure to check out the full episode if you haven't already.
See you next year...
00:00 Introduction
02:50 Sandor Katz - The History of Fermentation
05:50 Serge Valentin - Are We Taking Whisky too Seriously?
08:15 Tony Cecchini - How the Cosmopolitan Was Invented
24:10 Harold McGee - That Magic of Salt & Seasoning
27:15 Jeffrey Morgenthaler - How To Start a Trend
31:06 Jared Brown & Anastasia Miller - The Origins of Distillation
34:34 Kevin Armstrong - Souring Agents in Cocktails
37:07 Dave Broom - On Writing and Researching
40:36 Henrietta Lovell - Where Does Tea Come From?
43:46 David Mabberley - Is Citrus Doomed?
47:01 Luca Gargano - Haiti and Clairin
53:04 Megs Miller - Exploring Agave Species for Wellness
Gabe Cook (aka Ciderologist) is a cider expert and educator based in the UK. On the episode (recorded at Haywood Cider Farm in Cornwall) we take a deep dive into the culture, history and appreciation of cider, tasting our way through half a dozen English and American ciders. See links below for those producers and products.
Find Gabe here - https://www.theciderologist.com/
Tasty Stuff -https://www.haywoodfarmcider.co.uk/https://www.wildingcider.co.ukhttps://www.baumanscider.comhttps://www.greggs-pit.co.ukhttps://oliversciderandperry.co.uk/https://chancecider.com/
Simon is a writer, publisher and business entrepreneur. He is the founder of Diffordsguide.com, Class Magazine and Difford's Guide to Cocktails book Series which is now in its 18th Edition.
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Dr. Johnny Drain is a materials scientist turned fermentation obsessive, flavour innovator, and co-founder of the cocoa-free chocolate company pushing the industry to rethink everything it thought it knew about cacao.
Johnny’s one of those rare thinkers who can sit comfortably in the worlds of cutting-edge science and high-end hospitality. He’s worked with some of the most boundary-pushing restaurants and bars on the planet, helping them unlock new flavours, reduce waste, and harness the incredible power of microbes. His new book, Adventures in Fermentation, is part manifesto, part manual, part love-letter to the invisible life that shapes what we eat and drink.
In this episode, we get into the evolution of chocolate, the future of fermentation, how microbes actually make flavour, why pasteurisation isn’t the enemy, what gut science is really telling us, and what a “sound-tuned” ferment might taste like. It’s a conversation about flavour, sustainability, identity, and the weird, wonderful magic of transformation.
Settle in — this is a fascinating deep dive with one of the most interesting flavour thinkers working today.
Where to find Johnny:
Website: drjohnnydrain.com
Book: Adventures in Fermentation (available now in print + audiobook)
In this episode, Richard Seale of Foursquare Distillery joins me for a fast-moving deep dive into the history, culture and technology of rum — from 17th-century Barbados to the modern distillery.Key Topics:Is Barbados the birthplace of rum?Richard explains why the island is the true origin of cultural rum-making — not because it was “first”, but because it produced the earliest consequential, documented rum industry with skilled distillers, equipment, trade routes and scale. Sugar, the Dutch, and the rise of an industryWe explore how Dutch traders brought Brazilian sugar technology, how Barbados’ wind and water resources made large-scale production possible, and how early planters rapidly adopted boiling, milling and distillation methods. Early rum wasn’t crudeContrary to modern assumptions, 17th-century rum was sophisticated: spontaneous fermentations managed with skimmings and dunder, double distillation in copper, and a deep practical understanding of acidity and microbial balance. Export markets and the fall from dominanceBarbados supplied the American colonies with vast volumes of rum until war, revolution and hurricanes collapsed its export market — paving the way for Jamaica and others to dominate. The sugar industry’s long arcRichard traces the rise, centralisation and 20th-century collapse of Barbados sugar, from hundreds of estates to the single remaining factory today. The double retort pot stillA highlight of the conversation: why the double retort became the Caribbean’s signature still. Richard explains its structure, how low wines and high wines recycling works, and why it produces high proof, clean separations and excellent ester development. Batch vs continuous distillationWe cut through common myths: pot stills versus continuous stills, why “hybrid still” is a misnomer, why strength doesn’t equal flavour loss, and how batch and continuous distillation differ fundamentally in chemistry and output.
Jeff Morgenthaler has been a defining voice in the bar world for more than two decades. Bartender, blogger, and author, he’s shaped modern drinks culture through his long-running blog — still one of the most valuable resources on bar technique — his years at Portland’s much-missed Clyde Common, and his influential writing, including The Bar Book. Today he continues to travel, teach, and inspire, sharing clear, grounded insight into every corner of cocktail craft.
Jeff played a part in my own development early on, too. His blend of logic, humour, and precision helped validate the path taken by so many of us, and his influence on the industry — direct and indirect — is larger than most realise.
Although Jeff and I have known of each other for nearly twenty years, this was our first time sitting down together. The conversation ranged widely across the landscape of bars, technique, and drinks culture.
In this episode you’ll hear how Jeff found his way behind the bar, why baijiu deserves more appreciation, how to make your own cola, the early-2000s figures who shaped both our careers, how he riffs on eggnog, the common mistakes people make when batching syrups (and how his tools can fix them), what it’s really like to write a book, our thoughts on the World’s 50 Best Bars, what defines a truly great bar, and plenty more.
www.jeffreymorgenathaler.com
In this episode of The Curious Bartender Podcast, we welcome Jota Tanaka, Master Blender for Kirin’s Fuji Gotemba Distillery and Executive Fellow, Kirin Whisky. His career spans brewing, winemaking, American bourbon and Japanese whisky.
Jota joined Kirin Distillery Co. in 1988 and after roles in Japan and the United States, including a period at Four Roses Distillery where he helped launch the Small Batch range, he returned to Japan and became Master Blender of Kirin Whisky in 2017.
We explore his career, the story of Fuji Gotemba at the foot of Mount Fuji, and the evolving world of Japanese whisky including its history, methods, sensibilities, controversies, consumption and future.
Fuji Gotemba Distillery bio: https://www.fujigotemba-distillery.com/en/takumi/01/
Camper English is a San Francisco–based drinks writer and educator, best known for his long-running website Alcademics.com, an invaluable resource for bartenders and drinks enthusiasts alike. He’s the author of Doctors and Distillers: The Remarkable Medicinal History of Beer, Wine, Spirits, and Cocktails (2022) and The Ice Book.I sat down with Camper recently in San Francisco to talk about the city’s distinctive bar scene — from its historic haunts to its cutting-edge cocktail bars. We then dive into the fascinating world of ice (a subject Camper has explored more deeply than anyone), discuss Doctors and Distillers, and wrap up with a conversation about mineral water — including how to make your own.Doctors & Distillers - https://alcademics.com/doctors-and-distillers-the-remarkable-medicinal-history-of-beer-wine-spirits-and-cocktails/The Ice Book - https://alcademics.com/the-ice-book-by-camper-english/📷 Follow me on Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/tristanstephenson/📚 I've written quite a few books on spirits and cocktails - https://www.thecuriousbartender.com/
Harold McGee is a man that requires no introduction if you are someone who has worked in food and drink in any capacity at all. In 1984 he published McGee On Food & Cooking and brought the science and technology of cooking and flavour to the masses. A second edition in 2004 served as the practical manual for any chef worth their salt, and elevated Harold to the status of godfather - or perhaps even god - of culinary science. More recently, he published a book called Nose Dive, which investigates aroma and smell, which is a topic we explore during our conversationAlso on the menu:Why humans enjoy bitterness, how herbs have co-opted us, how salt makes food more delicious, how water opens up the aromas of spirits, what happens when wine matures in the bottle, why some drinks have ‘length’, how evolution and culture have shaped our flavour preferences, what we mean when we say a drink or dish is balanced, what the next frontiers of flavour science look like, and much more.
📷 Follow me on Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/tristanstephenson/📚 I've written quite a few books on spirits and cocktails - https://www.thecuriousbartender.com/
Today I am speaking with Serge Valentin. Serge is a whisky expert and the founder of a whiskyfun.com - which is widely regarded as the go-to review repository for whisky tasting notes and scores on the internet. Over the past 23 years Serge has tasted over 20,000 bottles ranging from entry level staples to some of the rarest in the world. His scoring system has become the de facto benchmark by which many measure the quality of a dram, and Serge has become a cult hero amongst the world’s whisky geeks.
On the episode we discuss tasting whisky - personal preferences over objective goodness, the hubris of blind tasting, whether whisky is too serious, the role of independent bottlers, how whisky changes in the bottle, recent exceptional whiskies, weird whisky, the founding of whiskyfun.com, the importance of education, changing tastes, whisky myths, and much more.
In today’s episode, I’m joined by one of the true mavericks of American distilling — Lance Winters of St. George Spirits. This is a journey that begins in the orchard, with pears, quinces and raspberries destined for eau de vie, and stretches all the way to absinthe, American gin, rum and even highballs built on umeshu and Baller whisky.
We trace the roots of St. George back to Jörg Rupf and the early days of California craft distilling in the 1980s, and follow Lance’s arrival and the evolution of a house defined not by category, but by philosophy. Along the way we dive into the uncompromising art of eau de vie — fruit selection, fermentation, and the stills that shape every spirit they make — and ask how that sensibility influences whisky, rum and beyond.
From jalapeño vodka to acorn spirits, from dill lactones in oak to the question of consistency versus expression, this conversation is about more than products. It’s about place, curiosity, and a willingness to let flavour lead. We explore American gin through Californian botanicals, the rebirth of absinthe, the origins of Baller, the future of eau de vie, and where all this innovation leaves the legacy of St. George.
This is not a tour through a portfolio — it’s a look inside a creative engine.
To support the show please rate, subscribe and share - thanks!
Charles Denby is the co-founder and CEO of Berkeley Yeast, a company that’s reimagining fermentation through genetics. With a PhD in molecular and cell biology from UC Berkeley, Charles and his team are using genetic science not to replace brewing tradition, but to enhance it — designing new yeast strains that can transform how beer, wine, and even spirits are made.In this conversation, we dive deep into the biology that underpins flavour. We unpack what yeast actually is, why it produces alcohol, and how its metabolism creates the esters and aromatics we love in drinks. Charles explains how fermentation conditions shape flavour, how lager and ale yeasts differ, and what really happens inside the tank at every stage of fermentation.From there, we go microscopic — exploring yeast genetics, DNA modification, and the molecular tools that make it all possible. Charles shares how Berkeley Yeast engineers strains to enhance tropical aromas in hazy IPAs, introduce new layers of bitterness, or even make brewing non-alcoholic and healthier beers more efficient.We also discuss the broader implications of this technology — from applications in wine and spirits to the stigma surrounding GMOs and what “responsible innovation” really means in the drinks world.
This is a fascinating deep dive into the invisible world that drives fermentation — and how science is quietly shaping the future of flavour.If you like this content please consider subscribing.
00:00 Introduction
02:34 Charles’ Background in Science & Origins of Berkeley Yeast
10:29 What is Yeast? Why Does it Produce Alcohol? Yeast Metabolism
16:49 Fermentation Conditions, Ester Metabolism
22:04 Yeast Species: Lager & Ale Yeasts
24:24 Stages of Fermentation
28:34 Nutrients for Fermentation, Amino Acid Synthesis, Diacetyl Production
36:34 Why Is Beer Fizzy? Production of CO2 During Fermentation
37:34 Yeast Genetics, Cell Biology, Evolutionary Biology
42:29 Modifying Yeast DNA, Molecular Scissors, Polymerase Chain Reaction
55:54 The Complex Web of Genetic Modification
1:01:14 Testing Yeast in Berkeley Yeast’s Microbrewery
1:04:04 Comparing Hazy IPA Yeasts, Creating Tropical Aromas
1:09:19 Engineering Yeast for Bitterness
1:12:04 Brewing Non-Alcohol Beer, Vacuum Distillation: Method, Downsides
1:16:54 Brewing Beer for Health
1:22:17 Applications in Wine: Flavour, Low-Alcohol, Cultural Knock on Effect
1:26:14 Residual Sugar in No/Low Alcohol Ferments
1:27:59 Applications in Spirits: Flavour & Efficiency
1:30:49 The Berkeley Yeast Business Model, Lifespan of Yeast Cultures, Competition
1:35:44 Overcoming the Stigma of GMO, Responsible Technology, Defining GMO in Beer
Megs Miller is a bartender, educator, and all-round agave obsessive — whose journey has taken her across multiple continents but most recently to Mexico City, where she runs Salón de Agave, a tasting room dedicated to exploring the depth and diversity of Mexico’s native spirits.In this episode, you can expect to learn about agave species and taxonomy, how different agave species affect the mind and body — Megs and her co-worker Sophie have been conducting a two-year experiment on this — insights into retailing agave spirits in Mexico, the nuances of terroir and regional flavour mapping, and the joy of glass-matured mezcal.We also dive into sotol, pulque, and the evolving conversation around responsibility, sourcing, and politics in agave spirits. From the cheesiness of Inaequidens to the pine forests of Chihuahua, and from women’s progress in the industry to the cultural storytelling behind each bottle — this is a deep and generous look at the Mexican spirit.Megs was so generous, in fact, that we tasted around 25 different distillates — and as someone who’s tasted quite a few in my time, I wasn’t surprised to find that there were many amazing surprises. I wasn’t able to write down or document them all, but if you’re interested in anything in particular, I suggest giving Salón de Agave a follow on Instagram or booking a session with them next time you’re in Mexico City. It’s awesome.https://salondeagave.com/
00:00 Intro
02:25 Meg’s Trip to Durango
06:25 Agave Species and Taxonomy, Tequila
11:25 How Different Agaves Affect Your Body, Agave Spirits Distillation
15:35 Retail of Agave Spirits in Mexico
16:35 Terpenes in Agave Spirits, Health
18:55 Moving to Mexico – Opening Salón de Agave
26:25 Glass-Matured Mezcal, Pechuga, Salt & Lime
37:25 Agave Education, Price & Value
45:05 Mapping Flavour Around Mexico, Terroir
49:55 Tasting Maguey Inaequidens Agave, Cheesiness, Narcos
56:45 Back to Durango, Maguey Lampranillo, Label Design
1:00:35 Tasting Vino del Norte from Pechotierra, Pulque Production, Appreciating Pulque
1:06:40 The Evolving Flavour of Agave Spirits, Appreciating Agave Spirits, Glassware
1:08:15 Sotol, Dasylirion
1:10:32 Texture and Mouthfeel in Agave Spirits, Tuning Your Flavour Perception, Context in Tasting
1:19:25 Mezcal Labelling, DO, Rebellion, World Agave Spirits, Mezcal Politics, Responsible Sourcing
1:28:25 Chihuahua Sotol, Pine Forests, Cultural Terroir
1:31:42 Women in Agave Spirits: Challenges, Progress
1:40:25 Guerrero Cupreata, Inconsistency, Scarcity, Bottle Killing
1:45:15 Distilado de Pulque from Salmiana, Mango Distillate
1:48:45 Identifying Agave by Smell: Inaequidens & Salmiana, San Luis Potosí Agave Cooking
1:51:45 Challenging Preconceptions in Agave Spirits, Smokiness
1:54:25 Oaxaca, Small-Batch Cupreata, Cowhide Fermentation
1:56:35 Tasting Notes, Describing Flavour, Context
Richard Hart is one of the world’s most respected bakers and a celebrated author. He first rose to prominence in the early 2000s while working at the legendary Tartine Bakery, San Francisco. From there, he co-founded Hart Bageri with René Redzepi in Copenhagen, before relocating to Mexico City, where he recently opened his latest venture, Green Rhino. Richard is also the author of the James Beard Award–winning book Richard Hart Bread, and is widely regarded as one of the greatest exponents of sourdough bread on the planet.
In this episode, we dive deep into the craft and science of sourdough: how Richard’s methods and protocols have evolved over the years, the role of different cereals and milling techniques, the importance of water in bread, yeast management, ovens and baking temperatures, and practical tips for baking at home. We also explore bread culture and chew over some wonderfully contentious questions — from whether a pizza qualifies as a sandwich to the eternal mystery of the Jaffa Cake.
Although this is primarily a podcast about spirits, cocktails, and bars, The Curious Bartender is ultimately about curiosity. Bread has always fascinated me, and sitting down with one of the key figures who helped popularise sourdough worldwide was an opportunity I simply couldn’t turn down. It didn’t disappoint.
00:00 Introduction
01:44 Drinks Preferences
02:44 Balancing Eating & Exercise as a Chef & Baker, Working Hours
06:14 Baking Schedule & Flavour Considerations
08:44 Baking at Tartine in San Francisco, Instagram & Fame
12:29 Working with Rene Redzepi, Copenhagen, Hart Bageri, Danish Bread Culture, Family
19:29 Moving to Mexico City, City Life, Gentrification
23:14 Opening Green Rhino, Baking for Life, Incorporating Mexican Food, Chocolate, Corn, R&D, Fucking People Up
30:54 Flour, Milling, Selecting Wheat, Sourdough Process: Temperature & Time, Gluten
39:04 Water for Baking
40:59 Sourdough Starters: Superstition, Protocols, Effects of Altitude in Mexico City
48:29 Pursuing the Perfect Loaf, Defining a Perfect Loaf, Tweaking Parameters, Comparison to Cooking and Cocktails
54:04 Working with Rye, Danish Bread Culture
57:34 Other Grains: Oats, Spelt, Durum, Einkorn
1:00:44 Water Substitutes: Beer, Tea
1:03:04 Making Brioche, Burger Buns
1:05:44 Stoneground flour, Wood fired ovens, Thermo-oil vs Electric Ovens, Oven Dynamics
1:08:58 Baking Bread at Home - Techniques and Tips, Temperature & Steam
1:12:01 Is Bread The Best it’s Ever Been? Fixing Supermarket Bread
1:15:11 Bread Guilty Pleasures
1:15:53 Is a Pizza a Sandwich?
1:18:58 Burger Flipping Masochism
1:20:50 Is a Jaffa Cake a Cake or a Biscuit?
1:21:14 Sandwich Filling & Bread Pairing
Dave Broom is one of the most prominent and influential voices in the world of whisky and over the course of his career he has written some of the most important books on whisky and spirits including The World Atlas of Whisky, Whisky: The Manual, A Sense of Place, and The Way of Whisky — works that have shaped the way both enthusiasts and professionals understand flavour, culture, and the people behind the glass.On the episode we delve into the all important sense of place — from the cultural terroir of Scotland to the artistry and craft of distilling, and how flavour finds its way into the glass. Dave takes us from Japan to New Zealand, from English farms to French stills, as we explore the global spread of malt whisky and why everyone seems to be making it.We also get into his writing: the discipline, the methodology, the architecture of narrative non-fiction, and the influence of mentors like Michael Jackson. Along the way, we talk music, art, storytelling, and the state of drinks journalism today.And we taste some stuff too — French sorghum whisky, Breton malts, German rye, and the genius of Chichibu, and a sneak preview of the whisky from my new project at Rosemaund Farm — each dram opening the door to wider conversations about style, strength, regionality and the shape of whisky itself.And we close with the big themes: whisky’s current bubble, the secondary market, daily drams, and favourite distilleries.
02:37 A Sense of Place - Terroir in Spirits, Scotch Whisky Cultural Terroir
10:02 Artistry & Craft in Whisky Making - Learning from Masters, Adapting Tradition, Economics and Law
15:07 How Do Flavours Find Their Way Into Whisky? The Way of Whisky and Japan
19:42 Whisky In New Zealand - Codrona, Burning Manuka Wood, Waiheke Distillery
22:17 Why is Everyone Making Malt Whisky?
23:59 Writing - Latest Project, Mixing American Whiskey, Untold American Whiskey History, Researching History
34:27 Dave’s Writing Process - Research, Poetry, Methodology - The World Atlas of Whisky: Influence, Practicality
39:48 Writing Narrative non-fiction - Road Trip Books, Telling Stories, Narrative Architecture, The State of Drinks Journalism, Content and distraction, Photography
52:17 The Arts & Spirits - Music, Art, Culture
56:47 Tasting Bows French Sorghum Whisky - The French Whisky Category, Regionality, Eau de Vie
1:02:07 *Dave’s Methodology for Assessing Whisky - Writing Tasting Notes, The Shape of Whisky
1:07:37 The Macbeth Whisky Series - Making Whisky Fun through Communication of Flavour
1:11:07 Tasting Rosemaund Farm 10 Year Old English Whisky
1:17:30 Whisky Bottling Strength - The English Whisky Category
1:20:42 Dave’s Early Career - Writing, Oddbins, Pubs, Becoming a Spirits Writer
1:25:37 The Influence of Michael Jackson - Writing Style, Beer, Writing for Consumers
1:28:57 Dave’s Writing Style - Poetry, Discipline, Trade Knowledge
1:32:42 Tone of Voice in Writing
1:34:07 Tasting Breton Whisky from Distillerie La Mine D'or ‘Galad’, Armorik Distillery, Development of French Whisky Market
1:37:12 *The Bursting of the Whisky Bubble - Overproduction, Lessons from the Past, Pricing, Perception of Whisky
1:48:47 Secondary Whisky Market - Auction House Bubble, Karuizawa, American Whiskey
1:51:42 Opening Rare Bottles, Buying Whisky, Daily Drams, Changing Preferences for Taste
1:57:27 Tasting Hardenberg German Straight Whisky - Leopold Bros.
2:00:09 Chichibu Tasting - The Genius of Ichiro Akuto, Malting, Barley, Mizunara
2:03:56 Quickfire Questions
Dave's site - https://thewhiskymanual.uk
Dave on Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/davewasabi/
Liquid Antiquarian YouTube Channel - https://www.youtube.com/c/TheLiquidAntiquarian
Rosemaund Farm Distillery - http://www.rosemaund.com📷 Follow me on Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/tristanstephenson/📚 I've written quite a few books on spirits and cocktails - https://www.thecuriousbartender.com/
This week I’m joined by Nick Strangeway, one of the most influential British bartenders of the modern era. With almost 40 years in and around the London drinks scene, Nick has tended bar at legendary spots like Fred’s Club, The Atlantic Bar & Grill, and Che, designed drinks programmes for Hawksmoor, Hix, and The Groucho Club, and consulted for venues worldwide. He’s also ventured into spirits production — from creating flavoured vodkas with Absolut under the Absolut Craft label, to co-founding Hepple Gin and Second Sip, a low-ABV gin.
Nick’s career is deeply intertwined with the late, great Dick Bradsell. They worked together on and off for over a decade, and much of the first part of our conversation explores Soho’s 1980s and 1990s bar scene — the people, brands, drinks, and wild stories that defined the era.
We go on to cover everything from the art of serving a martini, creativity in bartending, the brilliance of batching, the gentrification of London, Simon Difford and Class magazine, taking inspiration from the kitchen, the beauty of punch, the problem with bars you can’t sit at, fighting customers, and Nick’s latest venture — a new basement bar beneath a jeweller in Burlington Arcade, which opened just last week.
If you’re not yet subscribed, now’s the time. Next week, I’ll be speaking with perhaps the greatest living whisky writer, followed by a two-week trip across Mexico and the USA to record with some true heavyweights of the food and drink world. Don’t miss out — it’s free.
00:00 Introduction
02:42 Frozen Glasses, Martinis, Champagne, Specifications, Vermouth
06:59 Nick’s Entry into Bars - The Allure of Bars, Fred’s Club
11:42 Working with Dick Bradsell - Bramble, Vodka Espresso
15:42 The Changing Nature of London - 1980’s to 2020’s - Drinking Dens in Soho, Gentrification, Community, Class
24:12 Modern Bartending: Influencers, Competence, Creativity, Hospitality, Bar as a Barrier
34:22 Working at Che - The Customer Perspective, Fighting in Bars, Dick Bradsell Vaulting Over the Bar
39:57 Following Dick Bradsell to Atlantic Bar & Grill, Detroit, The Flamingo, Dick Bradsell’s Approach to Hospitality & The Scene
53:19 Creating Cocktails - Modifying Classics, Simon Difford - Class Magazine, Sauce Guides
59:22 American Cocktails vs. UK, Punches
1:04:22 Shifting to Restaurant Bars - Challenges, Chef Approach to Drinks, Batching Cocktails, Theatre, Bars that You Can’t Sit At
1:24:42 The Origins of Hawksmoor - The Benefits of No Uniform, Building a Great Team, Obsession, Eating Pencils, Jonathan Downey & the Smoking Ban
1:43:21 Developing spirits for Absolut
1:48:57 The Birth of Hepple Gin - Valentine Warner, Walter Riddel, Northumbria, Wild Juniper, Technology - Super Critical CO2 Extraction
2:00:37 Second Sip Low ABV Gin - Development, Leo Robitschek, Overcoming Technical Challenges - Texture, Louche
2:11:02 No Regrets Bar - Designing a New Bar Concept for Mayfair, Curating Clientele
2:18:12 Other Projects - Richard Corrigan, Valentine Warner & Wild Kitchen
Episode sponsored by Fever-Tree
Henrietta Lovell is the founder and CEO of The Rare Tea company, a tea educator and author of the book Infused: Adventures in Tea. Over a career of more than 20 years Henrietta has travelled around the foothills of the Himalayas, across China, Japan, India, and Malawi, sourcing some of the best teas in the world and learning from the communities that grow them. She has worked with world class chefs and bartenders, including supplying tea at some of the bars I have owned over the years. In fact we first met around 15 years ago when I opened the Worship Street Whistling Shop in London.This episode is a tea masterclass that covers the basics of growing, processing, brewing and tasting tea, but also explores, history, economics, sustainability, agricuture, health, poverty, and some of the most expensive teas on the planet. Expect to learn where most of the world’s tea is grown - clue it isn’t china or India, why it is the Emperors Golden Eyebrows costs in excess of £250 for a 30g bag, why you shouldn’t ever brew good tea for three minutes, best practices for making tea infusions in spirits and for the bar, and much more.To support this podcast please like and subscribe.
🙏 This episode is sponsored by Fever-Tree📷 Follow me on Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/tristanstephenson/
00:00 Introduction
01:41 Cold Brewed Tea - Avoiding oxidation, Osmosis, Method
06:21 The Remarkable way that high end Jasmine Tea is Made, tasting, uses of Jasmine tea Noma
10:56 Tea as an Alternative to Wine - tasting Himalayan First Spring blended with Japanese Sencha
13:24 Tea Varietals, Colonial History, Early Tea Drinks in India, Blending Tea & Comparisons to whisky
19:11 Tea Types - White, Green, Oolong, Black, Pu’erh - Controlling Oxidation, Drying, Terroir and Agriculture, Fermentation
25:24 Where Tea Grows - Environment
26:41 East Africa, The Problem with Commodity Tea, Brokers, Responsible Tea Drinking, Direct Trade
32:46 finding the Best Teas - Flavour, Independent, Organic Practices (vs. Organic Certification), Polyculture Framing, Impact of other Flora on Tea
38:27 The Lifespan of a Tea Plant, Harvesting (Machine vs. Hand), Risk of Tech on Tea Communities
45:51 Perception of Tea - Taste Testing, The Problem with Tea Bags, Practicality of Brewing Tea vs. Coffee
54:16 Fruit Teas - Flavour Essences, Fruit Extracts
01:00:46 Trading Up on Tea - What to Look For, Margins on Tea
1:05:44 Tasting Coffee Leaf Tea
1:08:31 Pu’erh Tea - Pairing for Food, Flavour, Ageing Tea, Tea Cakes, Tea Collectors, Tong Mu Village, Emperor’s Golden Eyebrow Tea
1:17:21 Brewing Techniques - Equipment, Temperature, Brew Ratio, Time
1:28:14 Carbonating Tea, Salting tea, Pairing with Cheese
1:30:18 Matcha - Colour, Origins, Production (traditional vs modern), Commodity Matcha Syrups & Matcha Trend, Matcha and Coconut Water
1:40:23 Caffeine in Tea - Inconsistency, vs. Coffee, Decaf Tea
1:43:53 Alcohol based Tea Extractions - Protocols, Flavour, demo with Gin Infusion, Tea Cocktails
1:52:11 Closing Words - Tea in the Present Day, Yerba Maté
Dale is a bartender, author, brand owner, and the co-founder of the Museum of the American cocktail. In the late 90’s working at NYC’s Rainbow Rooms Dale was probably the most famous bartender on the planet and has remained one of the best loved bartenders to this day.
I sat down with Dale in Manhattan a few weeks ago, looking out over the Empire State Building as the sun went down. The interview was scheduled during a very tight window of opportunity between Dale arriving back from Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans and me catching a flight back to London. We had just 90 minutes, which wasn’t nearly enough time for a man with some many stories and such a sharp memory.
In fact chronologically we barely got to 1990 before I had to turn off the microphones and hot foot it to catch my flight. For that reason, I am calling this interview Part one and hope to sit down with Dale to record the second part next year - and who knows, maybe we will need a third part.
What you are about to hear is less a story of Dale’s career and more a tour of New York and Los Angeles hospitality from the late 1950’s through to the 80’s, exploring its jazz clubs, neighbourhood bars, and some of the greatest restaurants and hotels of the 20th century. Dale recounts the musicians that provided the soundtrack, the chefs that designed the cuisine, and the architects that imagined the buildings, all in vivid detail.
Perhaps the most significant of these people to Dale, was Joe Baum - one of the United States most significant restauranteurs who introduced the concept of themed restaurant tot he world with no expense spared. Working with acclaimed chefs like Julia Child and James Beard, he opened hundreds of restaurants across America, most notably The Four Seasons Restaurant, Windows of the World at the top of the world trade centre, and the Rainbow Room at the Rockefeller Centre. You’ll hear about other venues during the course of our conversation too.
We also discuss the founding and challenging upbringing of the Museum of the American Cocktail, the incredible aesthetic and culinary vision of Joe Baum, the establishment of modern American cuisine, what it was like working at the Bel Air Hotel in the 1980’s, the establishment of The Rainbow Room, and much much more.
There are perhaps 100 different names and venues mentioned in this episode and it can get quite confusing. If you’re of the mind to do so I recommend watching the episode on YouTube when you get a chance, as I have provided archive images and captions to help paint the picture.
Episode sponsored by Fever-Tree Mixers
https://degroffspirits.com
00:00 Introduction
03:11 Tales of the Cocktail
06:41 Building the Museum of the American Cocktail - Jared Brown & The Rainbow Room, Ted Haigh, History of the Cocktail, Building the Collection, Locations
20:09 Dale’s Early Life - Acting, Moving to Manhattan, Packing Bibles*, Restaurant Associates, Howard Johnson’s, Jazz Clubs*, McGlade’s Bar
38:11 Working with Joe Baum, Restaurant Associates, Charlie O’s, Newarker, Four Seasons at the Seagrams Building, Modern American Cuisine, James Beard, La Fonda del Sol
53:59 The Rainbow Room: Early History, Design
55:11 Bel Air Hotel in Los Angeles - Cocktails, 7/11 Mix, Martini Rituals*
1:06:32 Aurora Restaurant, Reviving Classic Cocktails, Fresh Juices, Jerry Thomas
1:08:11 Building the Rainbow Room - Researching Classics, Recruiting Teams
1:18:01 Becoming Famous, Impact on cocktail culture around NYC, Consulting with Keith McNally - Balthazar, Pravda, Lucky Strike
Today I am speaking with Alexandre Gabriel. Alexandre is the founder of Maison Ferrand, Citadelle Gin, and Plantation—now Planetary—Rum.
Expect to learn how a Burgundian farm boy turned his hand to bartending in New York and then went on to innovate across the categories of cognac, gin and rum. We take a deep dive into the production of Cognac - terroir, grape varieties, distillation, maturation, and discuss the changing market of cognac in France and abroad.
From there we turn to gin, covering the birth of Citadelle in 1996 and the challenges of establishing the world’s first modern craft gin distillery.
The conversation then shifts to rum—Alexandre’s early encounters, the founding of Plantation, double maturation, Jamaican and Barbadian styles, muck, dunder, and the acquisition of West Indies Rum Distillery. We taste our way through the Rockley still, and high-ester ferments, and discuss geographical indications, tradition and community.
We also discuss the decision to change the Plantation brand name to Planetary, and much more.
00:00 Introduction & Clarification on Jamaican Rum GI
05:16 Origin Stories - Childhood, Farming, Marc de Bourgogne, Growing What You Sell, Wine vs. Brandy, Bartending in NYC
16:06 Cognac - Acquiring Ferrand, The Cognac Market
18:16 The Cognac Regions, Cognac Houses, Geology & Flavour, Terroir, Yeast
30:56 Grape Varietes in Cognac - Ugni Blanc & Colombard - Acidity, Stability, Producing Seasons
33:36 Emphasis of Distillation over Fermentation
37:18 Maturation in Cognac - Coopers, Elevage, Limousin Oak, Gastronomic Approach, Trancais, Fill Strength
51:41 Tasting Ferrand 1840 - Finding old Cognac, Perception of Flavour based on Dilution, Historical Recipes, David Wondrich & Mint Juleps, Ancient Still Designs, The Evolution of Tradition
1:04:09 Dosage in Cognac - Methods, Purpose, History - Physiology of sweetness and salt perception, sugar quality
1:11:59 Changing Perceptions of Cognac - Cognac highballs, Misconceptions and Understanding
1:17:52 Creating Citadelle Gin - Gin Market in 1996, First Craft Gin Distillery of Modern Era, Growing Juniper, Legislation, Plymouth Gin, Ferran Adrià
1:32:24 Rum: Alexandre’s Early Experiences with Rum
1:34:16 Thierry Gardère and Barbancourt, buying barrels, the origins of Plantation, Navy Rum & Mr Fogg
1:42:56 Establishing the Plantation Brand - Nicolas Wine Shop Distribution, Naming the brand Plantation, First products, West Indies Rum Distillery team, Amaretto Cask Rum
1:47:04 Double Maturation in Rum - Tropical and Continental - History, Benefits
1:52:06 Jamaican Rum GI - Regulation Regarding Overseas Ageing, Myers, Captain Morgan - comparison to Single Malt Scotch
2:00:18 Clarendon & Long Pond Distilleries - Southern vs. Northern Distilleries Styles in Jamaica - Historical reasons for styles, Esters, Export
2:06:16 Muck, Dunder, Cane Vinegar & Bacteria in Rum Fermentation
2:09:12 Acquisition of West Indies Rum Distillery (WIRD) in Barbados - George Stade (Founder), Origins of NRJ
2:19:41 Stade’s Rum - Rockley Still: World’s Oldest Rum Still, Restoration, First Distillation
2:26:22 What is Barbados Rum? Varieties of Stills, History, Using Seawater in Rum Production
2:30:58 Tasting Hogo Monster - 2000ppm Esters
2:36:05 Stiggin’s Pineapple Rum, Pushing the Limits
2:38:16 Barbados Community, Growing Cane on Barbados, Curacao
2:41:49 Next Steps: Cognac grapes, Renovating more stills, Navy Rum R&D, Paraguay
2:46:41 Changing from Plantation to Planetary - Language, History, Consultation
Episode Sponsored by Fever-Tree
Sandor Katz is ften called a “fermentation revivalist,” Sandor has spent decades exploring how microbes shape our food, our drinks, our culture, and even our sense of place. He has written a number of book son the subject including Wild Fermentation, The Art of Fermentation, Fermentation as Metaphor, and Fermentation Journeys — the latter chronicling his travels to meet fermentation practitioners across the globe. His bestselling The Art of Fermentation won a James Beard Award and has become the definitive modern guide to the craft. In this conversation, we journey from the very origins of fermentation and the metabolism of alcohol to the staggering variety of fermented foods and drinks in our diets — and why they’re so much more than just flavour. We dismantle common misconceptions around health, freshness, and speed, and dive deep into Sandor’s own path into this microbial worldAlong the way, we unpack the fascinating interplay of bacteria, yeast, and mould, the difference between wild and cultured ferments, and how fermentation can capture the essence of a place, from mezcal to sourdough. We explore everything from lightly fermented tonic beverages and experimental meads to the wonders of koji mould and its transformative enzymes. And yes — we even get into the bad, weird, and downright challenging ferments, from stinky tofu to the notorious surströmming.Whether you’re a brewer, bartender, chef, or simply curious about the invisible life that feeds us, this episode is a deep dive into a living tradition — one that’s as old as civilisation, and as alive as the microbes themselves.
02:55 The Origins of Fermentation - Metabolism of Alcohol
06:42 The Breadth of Fermented Foods in our Diets - Flavour, Preservation, Texture
09:45 Misconceptions About Fermented Food & Drink - Language, Health, Germophobia, Challenging the Notions of Fresh & Fast
21:04 Sandor’s Journey in Fermentation - Childhood Encounters, Macrobiotic Diet
24:25 Gardening, Fermenting Tomatoes, Other Preservation Techniques, Fermentation Traditions
29:50 Microbes: Bacteria, Yeast & Mould - Isolation, Symbiosis, Environmental Conditions, Making Sauerkraut
37:14 Pathogenic Bacteria vs. Lactic Acid Bacteria
38:17 Wild vs. Cultured Fermentation - Backslopping, Sourdough, Making Yoghurt, Pure Culture Starters, Natto Bacteria
47:25 Fermentation as a Manifestation of Place - Mezcal, Bioprospecting for Yeast
58:00 Yeast - Efficiency vs. Flavour
59:49 Experiments in Alcohol Fermentation - Rice, Chinese Yeast Balls, Sumac Mead, Turmeric Mead
1:03:24 Tips for Wild Alcohol Fermentation - Stirring, Sugar, The Myth of Sterilisation, Protocols
1:09:00 Lightly Fermented Tonic Beverages - Tepache, Chicha, Country Wines, Orange Blossom Cordial, Meadowsweet Wine, Spruce Tip Wine, Root Beer, Ginger Beer
1:14:10 Water Kefir & Kombucha - Biology, Flavour Development, Alcohol Development, Commercialisation of Kefir & Kombucha, Origins
1:23:11 Koji Mould - Biology, Applications, Protease Enzymes, Sake, Soy Sauce
1:30:25 Use of Fermented ingredients in Bars and Restaurants - Cocktail Hacks, Sustainability, Narrative
1:37:41 Life Changing Ferments - Cheese. Stinky Tofu, Conditioning to Fermented Flavours
1:40:40 Bad/Weird/Disgusting Ferments - surströmming