Episode 24 of the SJX Podcast covers the surprises and unexpected developments of 2025, a year marked by significant material innovation and bold statements from established brands. In this final episode of the year, SJX and Brandon discuss Rolex's landmark Land-Dweller with its revolutionary Dynapulse escapement, Breguet's experimental magnetic constant-force mechanism that achieved unprecedented precision, and TAG Heuer's industrialization of carbon hairsprings. Vacheron Constantin also surprised with an extraordinary 150 kg astronomical clock created for its 270th anniversary, temporarily displayed at the Louvre alongside a companion wristwatch.

Thank you to all our listeners for joining us throughout 2025 - happy new year!

Show notes:

00:35 - Rolex Land-Dweller and Dynapulse Escapement

05:45 - Breguet Expérimentale 1 

10:30 - Vacheron Constantin La Quête Du Temps 

15:00 - TAG Heuer Carbon Hairspring Industrialisation

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Episode 23 of the SJX Podcast looks at value propositions under US$10,000 in 2025, a mixed year for affordable watches. While Tudor continued to refine its sports watch formula with the well-received Ranger 36, several micro-brands made compelling cases for themselves with distinctive designs and upgraded movements. The team highlights releases from Christopher Ward, Albishorn, and Kollokium that demonstrated there's still room for creativity and innovation at accessible price points, even as some established players moved upmarket. We also discuss the Grand Seiko UFA, which is just outside the range but might be worth it.

Show notes:

00:45 - Tudor Ranger 36

3:15 - Christopher Ward C12 Loco 

7:15 - Albishorn Thundergraph

10:15 - Kollokium Projekt 02

12:45 - Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA Ref. SLGB003

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Episode 22 of the SJX Podcast examines complications in 2025, a banner year that saw major brands deliver ambitious and record-setting complications. Several anniversaries, including Vacheron Constantin's 270th and Audemars Piguet's 150th, resulted in inspired releases.

Show notes:

00:45 - Vacheron Constantin Solaria Ultra Grand Complication

4:00 - A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual

6:15 - Blancpain Grande Double Sonnerie

9:30 - Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5

11:10 - Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar Cal. 7138

13:15 - Vacheron Constantin Impresses with the Métiers d’Art Tribute to the Quest of Time

14:07 - Chopard L.U.C. Grand Strike

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Episode 21 of the SJX Podcast reflects on independent watchmaking in 2025, a year that saw fewer genuinely new releases than expected. Many familiar names opted for variations on existing models rather than bold new directions, making the standout pieces all the more significant, including Urban Jürgensen's impressive relaunch under Kari Voutilainen, two exceptional time-only watches that proved there's still room for originality in a crowded field, and interesting calendars from Greubel Forsey, Konstantin Chaykin, and Berneron.

Show notes:

1:05 - Nelson's Victory Pocket Watch at Sotheby's

3:30 - Francis Ford Coppola's F.P. Journe FFC Break US$10m at Phillips

6:22 - Urban Jürgensen UJ-1

10:00 - Petermann Bédat Reference 1825

11:50 - Raúl Pagès RP2

13:15 - Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3

16:40 - Greubel Forsey QP Balancier

17:50 - Konstantin Chaykin White Rabbit

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On episode 19 of the SJX Podcast, we unpack the news that Francis Ford Coppola is selling his personal F.P. Journe FFC prototype at Phillips in a few weeks (along with most of his other watches).

We also discuss the legacy of F.P. Journe, which is coming into sharper focus ahead of the opening of his museum next year. The centrepiece of the museum is set to be the Breguet Sympathique no. 1, a landmark clock originally made by Mr Journe and re-acquired earlier this year for CHF5.51 million (equivalent to US$6.61 million at the time).

Show Notes:

3:00 - Phillips to Offer Francis Ford Coppola’s Personal F.P. Journe “FFC”

5:10 - The Breguet Sympathique no. 1 made by François-Paul Journe

12:10 - Cartier Portico Mystery Clock no. 3

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For episode 18 of the SJX Podcast, we sit down with Sylvain Berneron, founder of one of the most talked about new brands of the past few years. Fresh off the launch of the brand's first complicated model, the Quantième Annuel, Mr Berneron breaks down what it takes to start a watch business and stay on pace to produce a new model every year.

Show notes:

00:45 - Fine art to industrial design

03:35 - How to launch a watch brand

07:40 - 10 employees means capacity for breadth and depth

14:15 - A new movement every year; is this sustainable?

17:00 - Gold rather than brass for the movements

21:25 - Simple to complicated: the product progression at Berneron

29:15 - The house style of movement finishing

34:45 - Tiered pricing to reward collectors who take the biggest risk

38:30 - Real-world impact of big auction results

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On Episode 17 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon has just returned from WatchTime New York, an event that has emerged as the flagship watch fair in the United States since its debut in 2015. SJX shares his hands-on impressions of Breguet's new ref. 7225, which features a return of the brand's magnetic pivots and is the highlight of the brand's 250th anniversary releases so far.

We also examine the hamburger-sized 77 mm J. Player & Son 'hypercomplication' at Phillips - one of the most complicated and impressive British watches ever made, before wrapping up with a discussion about some of the pieces from JP Morgan's own collection coming up in the same auction.

Show notes:

1:00 - WatchTime New York Recap

5:50 - Breguet ref. 7225

14:30 - Thomas Engel Collector Profile

15:15 - J. Player & Son Pocket Watch at Phillips Geneva

19:20 - JP Morgan's Frodsham Pocket Watch

21:25 - JP Morgan's Cartier Model A Mystery Clock

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On Episode 16 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon discuss ongoing horology events in Paris and Singapore, the new Piaget Andy Warhol, and introduce a new segment comparing two watches head-to-head. First up is the Ulysse Nardin Freak - how does the original, now 25 years old, stack up to the new Freak S?

Show Notes:

00:45 - Vacheron Constantin Singapore Event Summary

1:30 - Rolex GMT Master event

2:45 - Mechanical Wonders at the Louvre

9:15 - Piaget Andy Warhol ‘Collage’

13:00 - Comparing the original Ulysse Nardin Freak with the new Freak S

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On Episode 15 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon shares insights picked up at Citizen's Super Titanium event in Paris, where he had the opportunity to speak with the brand's materials engineers. Still on the theme of titanium, SJX shares his views on the new Cartier Santos in the lightweight metal, and the different strategies of these brands which are playing to their respective strengths.

Another big story from this week is the launch of the new Petermann Bédat Reference 1825. Though it's not made of titanium, it's a strong third act (and a hint of what's next) for the brand. Is there still white space in the market for highly finished time-only watches?

Show Notes:

1:00 - Citizen Super Titanium Event Recap

8:45 - Cartier Santos Titanium

13:20 - Petermann Bédat Reference 1825

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On episode 14 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon Moore and SJX unpack Louis Vuitton's Monterey and discuss where fashion brands fit in the contemporary fine watchmaking landscape. We also cover the latest from Lange, which just added a stone onyx dial to the Saxonia Thin - is it the perfect watch for your next soiree?

Show Notes:

0:45 - A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Black Onyx

7:15 - Louis Vuitton Monterey

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On episode 13 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon Moore and SJX discuss MB&F's decision to give away 20 free watches - 10 pieces of a new LM101 Longhorn for Tribe members and 10 pieces of a matching M.A.D.1S for prior raffle registrants. It's a move that's generated a lot of buzz, and a little bit of consternation, but regardless it's a remarkable offer from one of the more successful independent brands of its era.

Also discussed is the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds which just got upgraded with a new solid 18k pink gold dial. Is this model still competitive nearly a decade after launch?

Show Notes:

0:20 - MB&F Giveaway

6:30 - A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds Pink Gold Dial

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On episode 12 of the SJX Podcast, SJX shares his hands-on impressions of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5, the fifth and final watch from the brand's R&D skunkworks.

We also address listener questions about the (great) leadership at Vacheron Constantin, and whether brands like A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin can gain market share from independents - why not?

Show Notes:

0:35 - Laurent Perves, chief executive of Vacheron Constantin

2:38 - The opportunity for establishment brands vs. indies

10:35 - Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5

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On episode 11 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the monumental Quête Du Temps astronomical clock that Vacheron Constantin just unveiled in Paris alongside the companion Quest of Time wristwatch. We also tackle Tudor's first moon phase complication and what it means for the brand's collection of dress watches.

SJX also shares his views on the news that Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour will be giving the keynote at Dubai Watch Week, a move that's largely unprecedented for the industry's most impenetrable brand. We also chat about the other big news in the world of watch fairs, Audemars Piguet's return to Watches & Wonders in 2026.

Last but not least, we discuss what Girard-Perregaux's new movement platform might reveal about the future of the brand.

Show Notes:

1:20 - Vacheron Constantin’s La Quête Du Temps

5:30 - Vacheron Constantin's Quest of Time wristwatch

10:45 - Tudor 1926 Luna

15:35 - Rolex CEO Jean-Frédéric Dufour keynote at Dubai Watch Week

24:30 - Audemars Piguet returns to Watches & Wonders

32:45 - Girard-Perregaux GP4800 movement analysis

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On episode 10 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the highlights and hands-on impressions from Geneva Watch Days, including the Greubel Forsey QP Balancier, Lange 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel, Gérald Genta's new Minute Repeater, and the latest perpetual calendars from Audemars Piguet.

We also discuss the significance of Tag Heuer's carbon hairsprings; after a short-lived launch in 2019, the brand has taken a mulligan and relaunched this technology with a key difference that might make carbon hairsprings a real alternative to silicon.

Show Notes:

3:20 - Berneron Quantième Annuel

6:50 - Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’une Montre 3

8:30 - Greubel Forsey QP Balancier

12:50 - Tag Heuer carbon hairsprings

19:50 - Gérald Genta's new Minute Repeater

24:45 - Lange 1815 Tourbillon Black Enamel

27:30 - Roger Smith Series 6

31:20 - New perpetual calendars from Audemars Piguet

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