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The Testpiece Podcast
Testpiece
193 episodes
1 day ago
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension), Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Benn’s Favorite Shoes for Board ClimbingMost Iconic Board Climbs (and why climbs become iconic)Everyone's Favorite and Leas...
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All content for The Testpiece Podcast is the property of Testpiece and is served directly from their servers with no modification, redirects, or rehosting. The podcast is not affiliated with or endorsed by Podjoint in any way.
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension), Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Benn’s Favorite Shoes for Board ClimbingMost Iconic Board Climbs (and why climbs become iconic)Everyone's Favorite and Leas...
Show more...
Sports
Episodes (20/193)
The Testpiece Podcast
Board Talk #7 — New MoonBoard?!, Quantum Board, BL#9, and What’s Coming In 2026 with Benn Wheeler and Risotto Rhomboids
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension), Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Benn’s Favorite Shoes for Board ClimbingMost Iconic Board Climbs (and why climbs become iconic)Everyone's Favorite and Leas...
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1 day ago
1 hour 37 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
[REDUX] Sean Bailey — Devilution FA [V16], Japan’s Gym Scene, The Future of Hard Sport Climbing, Spearheading USA’s Return to WC’s, Projecting in Bouldering vs Sport, and BTS of Making It As a Pro
This is a re-release of a previous episode with Sean Bailey. It was an absolute banger then, and it is today. Sean's been on a tear recently with his send of AOTB [V17], opening a new gym in Tokyo, and theres rumors of even more hard sending. Because of this, we thought it was a great time to bring this one back. We're on holiday this week, but we'll be back to normal starting next week. Happy holidays and new year everyone! Previous description, as originally aired Jan 29th, 2024. Sean Baile...
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1 week ago
1 hour 51 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#180 ‘Anti-Mega’ — GP81’s Julian Acevedo and Zoe Sayetta On Building Elite Training Facilities For All Ages
Julian Acevedo was one of the founders of the original ‘Anti-Mega’ gym, GP81 in New York City. This gym is the definition of a “climber’s climbing gym” and is known for great walls, great setting, and an even better community. GP81 has now blazed a trail again by opening a Youth Training Center which is headed up by the Creative Director Zoe Sayetta who has been coaching youth athletes for decades. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Is there plans to continue to expand GP8...
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2 weeks ago
1 hour 33 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
Good Temps #8 — Ondra Flashes V15, The Future Of Climbing Holds, Granite Addicts, and The Ethics Of Flashing
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): The How/What/When/Why of using WET chalk.Best skin tactics? Will Anglin’s deep dive on healing splits and the secret glue he uses for everything skin related.Links to things mentioned: Ethan Salvo on Luci...
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3 weeks ago
1 hour 10 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#179 Annie Sanders — 1st US Woman To Win Bouldering And Lead WC’s, Comp Style Vs Her Style, and Where To Focus While Competing
Annie Sanders is the first American woman to win World Cups in both Bouldering and Lead. And she’s only 18 so she’s just getting started! Hear about Annie’s breakout season and what’s in store for her future! Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): Who are your favorite competitors to watch and why?How do you deal with pressure in ISO before climbing?Which round has the hardest grades, Qualis / Semis / Finals? Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our...
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4 weeks ago
44 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
Board Talk #6 — BoD [V17] Is A Board Climb, The Sisu Proj, Noah Wheeler Destroys The School Room, and Does Board Climbing Cause Injuries?
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. Board Climbs Mentioned: “Paws To Riches” V6 on the 2024 MB, by Davy“All Jazzed Up” V10 @45 on the TB2 Spray, by Brian Squire“I Kneed You” V10 @45 on the TB2 Spray, by Michael Rosato“One Leg Vet” ...
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1 month ago
1 hour 22 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
Good Temps 'Emergency Pod' — V18?!
BLACK FRIDAY PATREON DISCOUNT! Get 25% off your first month or annual subscription until midnight (PT) on Dec 1st. Use code ‘BLACKFRIDAY’. ‘Emergency’ Episode! Elias Iagnemma sent his long standing project last week and proposed the grade of V18 / 9A+. A grade no one has ever proposed before. So we got the crew together outside our regularly scheduled program to discuss. Enjoy! This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from ...
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1 month ago
46 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#178 Ollie Torr — Olympians Train Like This, How Climbing Technique Actually Progresses, The Future Of Video Analysis, and What Lattice Is Doing With The Best Data Set In Climbing
Ollie Torr is the co-founder of Lattice. Yes, that Lattice. The biggest training company in the climbing space. Ollie has tested, coached, or worked with almost every top climber in the world, especially if they are in the UK. That means that Lattice also has the biggest and best data set around climbing metrics, and they’ve created an app to help apply what Lattice has learned over the last decade for everyone. Here is a link to get a Lifetime discount: https://plan.latticetraining.com...
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1 month ago
1 hour 51 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
Good Temps #7 — Arrival Of The Birds [V17] By Sean, Janja Climbs Everything, Current State Of The Gym Industry, and Ethical Limits Of Climbing Equipment
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): All things shoes! Stiff shoes or soft shoes? Should you have a special pair for sending and a different pair for training? And more…What does and does not factor into a grade? Approach? Morpholog...
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1 month ago
1 hour 31 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#177 Tyler Willcutt — The ‘X’ Factor, Agent For The Best Of The Best, Where Pro’s Make The Most Money, and How The Climbing Industry Compares To Others
Tyler Willcutt is the agent for climbers like Alex Honnold, Chris Sharma, Natalia Grossman, Tommy Caldwell, Jimmy Chin, etc… You get the idea. He is part of RXR Sports, an agency that represents the best athletes in adventure sports. In this episode we get a behind the scenes look at what the day to day is like as one of the greats in our sport. How they make money, handle pressure, and capitalize on major sends. Tyler also explains how not all athletes can cross into the mainstream. Some hav...
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1 month ago
1 hour 29 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
Board Talk #5 — Benn Wheeler Guest Appearance, Kilter Deep Dive, V15’s On Boards Are Officially Here, and Condition Dependent Boards
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. This week Michael took a vacay, but he was replaced by the inimitable board lord Benn Wheeler! Media Mentioned: Noah Wheeler FA’s a new V15 on the TB2Wheel Rock “Olympian vs V17 Climber”Wedge Vid...
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2 months ago
1 hour 36 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#176 Sierra Blair — "Boards Or Death", Transitioning From WC’s To Outdoors, The Longterm Training Formula, and Why She Loves The Mini-MoonBoard
Sierra Blair was an accomplished competition climber for many years with tons of World Cups under her belt. Due to a back injury she had to stay low to the ground and this lead her to the MoonBoard. It’s been love ever since and she has transitioned from her competition career into the outdoors where she is focused on bouldering in Arizona. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): What’s her favorite MoonBoard climb and why?What was it like being famous when young and w...
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2 months ago
1 hour 9 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
Good Temps #6 — Cold Sticky Granite, World Championships, The Latest Hard Sends In Bouldering/Sport/Alpine(!), and A New Ethics Segment
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): How do you safely work/clean/scope a boulder on a rope?When do you work on your weaknesses vs leaning into your strengths? Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page...
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2 months ago
1 hour 57 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#175 Mark Heal — The 4 Steps For Sending Any Grade, Tactics You MUST Know, How To Train For Outdoors and Designing The Best Gym In America
Mark and Josh have climbed all over the world together and this chat has been a long time coming! They’ve been discussing climbing for well over a decade and Mark has heavily influenced Josh’s views and understanding of how to climb at a high level. Mark Heal is an absolute legend in the Bay Area. He’s a V14 climber, with >600 double digit sends and amazing FA’s all over the Sierras. Mark is also a top private coach with over a decade of experience. And last, but certainly not least, he is...
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2 months ago
1 hour 34 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
Board Talk #4 — The Future Of Board Climbing Comps, The Ultimate Spray Wall, BTS With Honnold And Harrington and Board Climbing 102
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. 2024 MoonBoard Climbs Mentioned: "Tempest In A Teapot" V5, by rtag"Moon Spawn" V9, by Dana RaderPatreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): How do you stick better to wood hol...
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3 months ago
1 hour 21 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#174 Paul Houghoughi — The Gold Medal Physio, Preparing The Elite For Comps, How Pro’s Heal, and Climbing When You’re 100
Paul Houghoughi is the official physio for the GB Climbing team and accompanied them to both Olympics. He’s supported some of the best in our sport, such as Olympic gold medalist, Toby Roberts. Paul is also an extremely accomplished climber. He’s FA’d double digit boulders on almost every continent in the world and climbed up V13 (so far…)! Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): All things wrists!Does pain always mean that you are injured? How do you know when pain is...
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3 months ago
1 hour 35 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
Good Temps #5 — Youngest V16 Climber Ever, Another 8C Flash, $1M Comp Formats, Fame And Money
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley. Look at the Chapters for today's topics. Patreon Questions (join Patreon for extended cut with answers): Tips for someone's first trip to Yosemite and BishopDoes a rest hurt the quality of a boulder or route? Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
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3 months ago
1 hour 47 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#173 Chris Sharma — King Lines, The Ultimate Form Of Climbing, and When Chris Goes Yachting With Jason Momoa
The legend himself, Chris Sharma. Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
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3 months ago
1 hour 27 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
Board Talk #3 — Janja’s Board, How Boards Show A Climbers True Potential, Spray Walls Vs Standardized Boards, and The God Tier Challenge
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley. 'Classics' mentioned: "Effervescence" - 7A/V6 @ 45°"Clinical" - 7B/V8 @ 45°"Ignite" - 7B+/V8 @ 45°"Free Education" - 7C/V9 @ 45° Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcas...
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4 months ago
1 hour 24 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
#172 Jesse Firestone — How To Have Peak Climbing Experiences, Tolerating Uncertainty, and Being Your Own Coach
Jesse Firestone is a well known climbing coach. He's worked with people from every continent and of all levels (V0 - V16). Here's where you can find Jesse online: Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/coachjfire/Website: https://jfireclimbing.com/Jesse's own Podcast: https://open.spotify.com/show/6iRknM60I84k2pmeztWDt2?si=0fc3bde1ff244e74 Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
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4 months ago
1 hour 43 minutes

The Testpiece Podcast
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension), Benn Wheeler, and Joshua Horsley. Patreon Bonus Content (join Patreon for extended cut): Benn’s Favorite Shoes for Board ClimbingMost Iconic Board Climbs (and why climbs become iconic)Everyone's Favorite and Leas...