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Jeansland Podcast
Jeansland
48 episodes
5 days ago
This week, Andrew sits down with Shamin Vogel, editorial director and co-publisher of of WeAr Media Group—the people behind WeAr Global Magazine, one of the most widely read fashion trade publications in the world, and WeAr Denim, the biannual deep dive for the denim supply chain, backed by a monthly newsletter that actually gets read—to talk about where fashion really is right now, and why so much of it feels off. They dig into the tension between growth and meaning, why sustainability still...
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This week, Andrew sits down with Shamin Vogel, editorial director and co-publisher of of WeAr Media Group—the people behind WeAr Global Magazine, one of the most widely read fashion trade publications in the world, and WeAr Denim, the biannual deep dive for the denim supply chain, backed by a monthly newsletter that actually gets read—to talk about where fashion really is right now, and why so much of it feels off. They dig into the tension between growth and meaning, why sustainability still...
Show more...
Society & Culture
Arts,
Business,
Fashion & Beauty
Episodes (20/48)
Jeansland Podcast
Ep 48: Rethinking Growth in Fashion with Shamin Vogel
This week, Andrew sits down with Shamin Vogel, editorial director and co-publisher of of WeAr Media Group—the people behind WeAr Global Magazine, one of the most widely read fashion trade publications in the world, and WeAr Denim, the biannual deep dive for the denim supply chain, backed by a monthly newsletter that actually gets read—to talk about where fashion really is right now, and why so much of it feels off. They dig into the tension between growth and meaning, why sustainability still...
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2 weeks ago
44 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep 47: Portugal and the Long Game
This episode starts in 1975, just after Portugal’s Carnation Revolution. A dictatorship ends. No civil war. No collapse. Just a quiet reset and a country that suddenly has to figure out how to function without fear, hierarchy, or shortcuts. Then we jump to now. Portugal is one of the strongest-performing economies in Europe, and almost nobody is talking about it. So the question is not “what happened?” It’s “how long did it take?” In five minutes, Andrew looks at what decades of underinvestme...
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3 weeks ago
5 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep 46: Inside Denim Journalism with Sophie Bramel
Sophie Bramel is the technical editor at Inside Denim, and she watches the entire global denim ecosystem. Brands, mills, fibers, innovation, sustainability. All of it. In this conversation, Andrew and Sophie trace her path from music and fashion reporting to becoming one of the industry's most trusted observers. She talks about why denim mills feel like "cathedrals to blue," why true innovation takes decades (she uses Tencel™ as the perfect example), and why the industry talks sustainability ...
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1 month ago
37 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep 45: What COP30 Actually Means
In this week’s episode of Andrew’s Take, Andrew breaks down COP30 in Belém, Brazil and why so many people still don’t know what COP is or why the world gathers every year to discuss climate goals that rarely materialize. He walks through the entire arc, from COP’s 1992 origins to the Kyoto years, the Copenhagen disaster, the Paris moment of optimism, and the long loop of promises made and ignored. COP30 added its own contradictions: billions pledged for adaptation and forest protection, a str...
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1 month ago
6 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep 44: Building Jeans Worth Defending with Menno van Meurs
“If the supply chain isn’t something I can be proud of, the garment isn’t worth making.”— Menno van Meurs, Founder of Tenue de Nîmes and Tenue. Menno van Meurs runs one of the most respected denim stores in Europe, Tenue de Nîmes in Amsterdam. He also makes his own jeans under the Tenue brand. He's not chasing trends. He's holding the line on craft, quality, and supply chain integrity in an industry that's mostly given up on all three. In this conversation, Andrew and Menno talk about how the...
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1 month ago
34 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep 43: Are New U.S. Tariffs Even Legal?
In April, the White House called it Liberation Day. The apparel industry called it panic. Andrew breaks down what happened when decades of predictable duty rates got wiped out overnight. Global jeans suppliers were hit with numbers no one saw coming. Vietnam at 46%, Cambodia at 49%, Bangladesh at 37%. Orders paused. Panic spread. The rollout felt like a list of naughty countries with penalties posted on a scoreboard. But the story didn't end there. A group of small importers challenged the ta...
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1 month ago
7 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep 42: Fifty Years of Denim at Over the Rainbow with Joel and Daniel Carman
In 1975, Joel Carman opened Over the Rainbow with $2,000, a love of jeans, and no idea what he was doing. Fifty years later, Joel and his family run one of the longest-standing independent denim retailers in North America. Andrew sits down with Joel and Daniel to talk about what it takes to survive five decades in retail—from the early days when Joel was making $15 a day and driving a cab at night, to the decision to go premium in 2000, and how the internet became their best marketing tool wi...
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2 months ago
41 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep 41: Are Corporations Psychopaths?
If a corporation were a person, what kind of person would it be? Andrew revisits the 2003 documentary The Corporation, which diagnosed the modern company as a psychopath. No empathy, no remorse, no conscience. Just profit with zero regard for human cost. He applies that lens to denim. Chasing cheaper wages. Blue-washing sustainability while underpaying the people who make the jeans. The 2020 sequel's message? The corporation hasn't changed. It's just evolved from overt sociopathy to charming ...
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2 months ago
4 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep. 40: The Fight Worth Fighting—with James McKinnon
James McKinnon runs a 72-year-old family textile business in South Carolina. He's third generation. He sits on the Cotton Board, advises the USDA on cotton standards, and he'll tell you straight up that U.S. textiles are fighting some incredibly strong headwinds. But he also thinks it's a fight worth fighting. In this conversation, Andrew and James dig into what it takes to keep American textile manufacturing alive. They talk about supply chain innovation, why sitting on your hands expecting ...
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2 months ago
25 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep. 39: Andrew's Take: Do Jeans Really Symbolize Freedom?
Jeans have long been seen as the uniform of freedom. But if freedom is what we're selling, what's the truth behind the people making them? In this solo episode, Andrew looks at two global scorecards, one for freedom and one for happiness, across the 11 countries that produce most of the world's denim. The results aren't comfortable. China ranks third worst in the world for freedom. Egypt is eighth worst. Pakistan, Bangladesh, Turkey, all near the bottom. And most of these countries also rank ...
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2 months ago
5 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep. 38: Denim That Means Something with Michael Morrell and Paul Ledgett
Andrew sits down with two people who lived through the denim business alongside him for years. Michael Morrell and Paul Ledgett were his partners at Olah Inc., and together they built something that worked because they gave a damn about the product, the people, and doing things right. In this conversation, they go back. They talk about what it meant to run a denim agency in New York when the industry still cared about design and relationships. When you could shake hands on a deal and it meant...
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2 months ago
44 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep. 37: Who’s Got the Water?
The denim industry runs on water. But most of the places we make jeans don’t have enough of it. In this short, Andrew breaks down what happens when cotton, sewing, and finishing all depend on freshwater we can’t afford to lose. Countries like Canada have 74,000 cubic meters of water per person. Bangladesh? Just 635. Yet we keep building supply chains in places with the least to spare. Even rainfed cotton gets risky when the rains stop coming. Andrew asks a simple question: where’s the plan? W...
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3 months ago
5 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep. 36: The Denim Deal with Romain Narcy
One question froze Romain Narcy in his tracks fifteen years ago: "Do you know the environmental impact of making jeans?" He didn't. That moment sent him on a path from running suitcase sales trips across France to building one of Turkey's greenest denim factories to joining the steering committee of the Denim Deal. Their goal? One billion jeans made with recycled cotton by 2030. Sounds ambitious. Romain thinks it's doable. But only if brands stop pretending they understand their supply chains...
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3 months ago
37 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep. 35: Andrew's Take: Artistic Milliners Acquires Cone Denim
Big news in denim: Artistic Milliners of Karachi has taken a majority stake in Cone Denim, one of America’s most storied mills. From its 1891 roots in Greensboro, NC, to powering Levi’s 501s, Cone’s history now collides with one of the most ambitious players in the industry. Andrew breaks down what this deal means for global supply chains and why, even together, Artistic and Cone make up just one percent of denim worldwide. Is this the start of a new model, or just another big gamble? Please ...
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3 months ago
6 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep. 34: The Illusion of Circular Fashion with Subir Ghosh
This week on Jeansland, Andrew sits down with Indian journalist Subir Ghosh for a clear-eyed look at how sustainability narratives often miss the mark. Subir challenges the fashion industry’s fixation on circularity, calling it more of a marketing loop than a real solution. He explains why cotton farmers in India remain under immense pressure, why worker struggles beyond the sewing floor go largely unnoticed, and how global fashion summits recycle the same conversations without meaningful res...
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3 months ago
50 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep. 33: Why Are Jeans So Cheap?
Andrew rewinds to 1980 in this solo short. Cotton has been priced at 80-cents a pound ever since, while everything else (burgers, beef, coffee, gas) keeps inflating honestly. Farmers work harder for the same pay, garment workers get pushed offshore to 60-cent wages, and polyester quietly takes over as “oil in disguise.” Jeans don’t get cheaper because of efficiency. They get cheaper because the system is stacked against the farmer, the worker, and the planet. Listen to this episode short and ...
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4 months ago
4 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep. 32: American Hemp with Mark D’Sa from Panda Biotech
This week, Andrew digs into the future of fiber with Mark D’Sa, Senior VP at Panda Biotech. After decades sourcing for brands like Ralph Lauren, Gap, and Levi’s, Mark is now betting on U.S.-grown industrial hemp. He explains why hemp matters for American farmers facing water shortages and soil stress, how Panda’s cottonization process makes hemp soft and fully compatible with cotton, and why the sweet spot for denim blends is around 20–30 percent hemp. Mark also shares how Wrangler, Lee, and ...
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4 months ago
30 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep. 31 (Short): Styrofoam, the Cockroach of Packing
In this solo short, Andrew swerves away from denim to call out one of the most stubborn materials on earth: Styrofoam. After a hospital stay in Houston where every meal arrived on trays of squeaky white foam, he asks why a substance banned in 62 countries is still so common in the United States. Cotton biodegrades. Polyester eventually breaks down. Styrofoam never dies. It just crumbles into microplastics that sit in our landfills and oceans for centuries. From takeout boxes to hospital cafet...
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4 months ago
3 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep. 30: How Heddels Built a 'Buy Less Buy Better' Community with Nick Coe and David Shuck
Heddels began as Rawr Denim, a blog for selvedge lovers, and has grown into one of the strongest independent voices in slow fashion. Andrew talks with founders Nick Coe and David Shuck about their philosophy of buying less, buying better, and why keeping what you already own is often the most sustainable choice. Nick shares how a pair of APC jeans started his obsession with raw denim and eventually led to building Heddels. David recalls a trip to Tokyo that opened his eyes to Japanese selvedg...
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4 months ago
38 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
Ep. 29 (Short): The Real Facts on Water Use in Denim Indigo Dyeing
Behind the Transformers Foundation Water Report This bonus short features Andrew getting straight to the point. At Kingpins, he often hears mills talk about how they save water in their indigo dyeing process. They explain their methods, but sometimes the explanations are too technical for the audience or simply taken at face value without real verification. Over time, Andrew and his late colleague Miguel Sanchez felt the need for facts that could be compared and trusted. That is where the new...
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5 months ago
2 minutes

Jeansland Podcast
This week, Andrew sits down with Shamin Vogel, editorial director and co-publisher of of WeAr Media Group—the people behind WeAr Global Magazine, one of the most widely read fashion trade publications in the world, and WeAr Denim, the biannual deep dive for the denim supply chain, backed by a monthly newsletter that actually gets read—to talk about where fashion really is right now, and why so much of it feels off. They dig into the tension between growth and meaning, why sustainability still...